Remove the caliper bolts, and then you have to remove the hub and bearing assembly. If you cannot remove the sensor, be very careful not to break it. As easy as it sounds, it took me almost a week 4-5 days because I bought some parts wrong and was having to drive all the way into town sever times, which burns up alot of time when you live almost in Florence. Put all the studs back and hit them back in with a punch and hammer. Im just nervous about getting my truck too far down one of those trails and coming on somehting I either dont want to cross, or cant get over and not be able to turn around due to the turning radius of my truck and how tight some of those trails can be. There are 6 or 8 small tork bolts holding the cap on. Reverse procedure to install new unit.
Then replace with the new one. The stock driveline was reused. As far as the stacked blocks, I dont see how they can fail if all the ubolts stay tight because of the nipples that keep them together. Make sure they are flush! I got longer braided stainless steel brake lines directly through Crown. Over the years, these assemblies have proven themselves relatively reliable on moderately used trucks running stock, or close to stock tire size and power output. I also purchased from Precision Metal fab a drop track bar bracket and ajustible track bar.
Make sure you keep every thing in the order it came off. My old drop pitman arm had a little bit of play in it so it was replaced with a drop pitman arm from 4 wheel parts in mesa. The ubolts can flex, especially long ones. It drives pretty smooth and the only thing I can feel it the steering wheel lighty pulls side to side with little dips in the road but only when Im holding the wheel lightly. After you remove the dust cap, you'll see a cotter key holding a washer in place. After this place the rotor with th … e studs up.
Especially the old lift leaf springs I had before the swap. . Would have been done in like april but I got laid off from my job and now that I finally got another one, I got it stuffed in. Here are a couple pics. Fords have a bad habit of these bolts backing out.
As previously stated, most of these trucks came factory with a 3. Mostly probably east of the 79 highway in those mountains which is cottenwood canyon road, box canyon etc. Put on leaf springs onto new axle, install new axle. From the factory, these housings were stuffed with either the popular 3. This is very easy or nightmarish. For those of us that demand substantial power increases and larger tires, there is room for improvement to improve the reliability and performance that they can afford.
If you dont have a brass punch use a small punch to hit it in the center of the studs not to mess up the threads. Not only did I just put the axle in, I completely redid the suspension both front and rear. If something else causes trouble, yo … u have the manuel to see what you are in for. Remove the nut and separate the outer tie rod from the spindle. Dont over tightien the bearing.
But it can and is still being driven happily without it. It's under the dust cap. Remove the wheel, then the brake caliper and rotor. Even if it had gone completely smooth, I would still budget for 3-4 days minimum unless you had 3 guys or so helping out that knew what all to do. Now the new superduty springs soak up the bumps and the truck rides like it should. Then the outer bearing comes next. Remove this and that will grant you access to the nut that you need to remove to get the bearing and hub off.
Just my style I guess. I also had to drill out the rear leaf spring shackle where the leaf spring bolts to it to accept a larger super duty leaf spring bolt. It has procedures on a variety of removing and replacing parts. At least that's what I've heard, maybe some others can chime in an correct me if need be. Unfortunately, in this scenario there is no such thing as a 4.
Otherwise expect it to be easy. After taking the cap off there is a spring and a small bearing that comes out. I have no idea where the hard trails are and where just the moderate trails are. It was pretty straight straight forward for the swap. You may have to pull very hard with a jerking motion to remove it as it is held in place by a locking circlip. The first hole that had to be clearanced was on the front stock shackle hanger where the shackle bolts to it.
And I'm sure there's people on here that will show you around there. Or at least be able to see the cool sights like the Coke ovens and stuff. Also, locktite the caliper bolts. An air hammer may also work well if available. After you get all of the studs out the rotor should be able to come off the hub. If you live in the rust belt, expect it to be nightmarish.